THINGS TO DO IN THE GARDEN

FALL PLANTS
Flower/bulb: Naked ladies (Colchicum spp. & cvs.)
Perennial: Aster (Aster spp. & cvs.)
Shrub: Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
Tree: Japanese maple (Acer palmatum)Essential fall plants:
Tip: Plant flower bulbs three times the depth of the bulb.

[January/February]
• Make plans for planning a mixed border. Check your hardwood cuttings. If they have been disturbed by frost, firm them back. You can plant winter flowering heathers now if you like, to give some instant colour. Protect crocus flowers from mud splash by mulching the area with a fine grade of composted forest bark.
• You can still plant roses if necessary.
• Continue pruning deciduous shrubs and trees and pay special care to removing all dead wood. Return to Japanese maples later, at leaf-break, and head back branchlets whose tips have died back.
• Continue to plant trees and shrubs in open weather.
• Sow seeds of trees and shrubs under glass.
• Sow seeds of alpines in a garden frame.
• February is the last month you can safely plant out bare-rooted roses.
• Go round coloured-leaved shrubs such as Spiraea 'Gold Flame', removing any green, reverted shoots.
• Buddleia davidii varieties may be pruned hard back now, but in colder areas leave until March.
• Remove suckers from roses.
• Prune late flowering, large=flowered clematis and hydrangeas.
• Order summer-flowering bulbs such as gladioli.
• Lilies may be transplanted towards the end of February in milder climates. Be careful to keep as much soil round them as possible.
• Now is the time to top dress roses with either well-rotted manure or bonemeal, but not at the same time.
• Slugs and Snails - wood ashes sprinkled around plants can help keep these creatures away.
• Squash Bugs - Repel squash bugs with the reflected light of heavy strips of aluminum foil placed under the squash, cucumber, or pumpkin vines. As a bonus, the foil also shields the weeds from the sunlight, thus alleviating the weed problem. It also helps keep the soil moist. And as if that weren't enough, it also seems to make the fruit ripen faster.
• Caterpillars - if you have a problem with crawly caterpillars, wrap transparent tape around the stems of your affected plants, and the critters will slide right down.
• Aphids and Other Insects - bugs do not like the smell of mint, which is reason enough to grow mint. If you have mint leaves, spring them around the garden or prepare mint tea and water your plants with it.
• Herbs - Many herbs have insecticidal powers. Figure out which vegetables, fruits, and flower you want to plant, then do some homework [gardenwork] on the herbs that may help protect your plants. Here are a few to start you off: If you plant cabbage or cabbage-family vegetables such as Brussels sprouts, broccoli, or cauliflower, plant dill, mint, sage, or thyme, which will repel cabbage moths.

[February/March]
• Sow seeds of trees and shrubs under glass.
• This is the last month during which you can safely plant out bare-rooted rose.
• Lilies may be transplanted towards the end of this month. Be careful to keep as much soil round them as possible.
• Go round coloured-leaved shrubs such as Spirea Gold Flame removing any green, reverted shoots.
• Plant clematis.
• Prune late-flowering, large-flowered clematis and hydrangeas.
• Remove suckers from roses.
• Buddleia davidii varieties may be pruned back hard later this month, but in colder areas leave until March.
• Carry out path cleaning and maintenance.
• Clean up flowerbeds and put debris in the compost pile, except for leaves from diseased plants, such as rose leaves with black spot.
• Go over the garden with a critical eye for dead leaves, heaps of blown twigs and general litter. Lift and divide perennials, taking care not to damage new shoots.
• Finish pruning ornamental trees and spray with dormant oil if not already done.
• Prune grey leafed plants like lavender & lavender-cotton.
• Complete pruning of tree and bush fruits by the end of March.
• March 1 to 15 begin to sow radish, garlic and broad beans.
• March 16 to 31 begin successive sowings of peas, spinach, leaf lettuce, Chinese vegetables, onion set, turnips and shallots.
• Apply dolomite lime to lawn at the end of the month.
• Start dealing with slugs.

[March]
• Plant trees, shrubs, hedges, flowering vines, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and strawberries this month so that the plants can establish new roots in the garden before the arrival of very warm weather.
• Hardy perennials can be planted in March.
• Complete pruning fruit trees and roses early in the month.
• Surround lettuce and other vulnerable plants with crushed egg shells or diatomaceous earth as a barrier to slugs.
• Divide crowded perennials and overgrown rhubarb clumps. Replant only the outermost, young sections of perennials clumps in replenished soil. Discard the old, woody centers.
• Trim back woody herbs such as lavender, rosemary and sage for compact new growth.
• Fertilize established trees, shrubs, vines, and fruiting plants. Mulch rhubarb plants with an enriching layer of compost and/or composted manure.
• Weed, clean and fertilize perennial and shrub beds. Top dress with compost over the fertilizer to boost the health of ornamental plants.
• Clear the ground under pruned roses, fertilize, and mulch with compost or composted manure for a healthy boost to new growth.
• Try underplanting roses with garlic and chives to reduce the incidence of black spot and intensify the perfume of the rose blooms.
• Now is the time to top dress roses with either well-rotted manure or bonemeal, but not at the same time.
• Remove suckers from roses
• As long as the soil is not sodden prepare vegetable and flower beds for planting. Add compost or composted manure and fertilizer to the soil, and a little lime except where potatoes, strawberries and other plants preferring acid soil conditions are to be located.
• Where soils are no longer wet and cold seed hardy vegetables and flowers outdoors, broad beans, lettuce, radish, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, bok choy, cabbage, calendula sweet peas and poppies.
• Seed indoors eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes. Many annual flowers can be sown indoors in March impatiens, nemesia, petunia, salpiglossis, portulaca, lobelia, coleus, salvia, dahlia, celosia, alyssum, asters, lavatera and cosmos among them. Transplant outdoors in the warmth of May.
• Start begonia tubers into growth.
• Trim faded flowers from winter heathers.
• Rake old matted grass and moss from lawns as soon as the ground is no long wet. Apply lime if this was not done in the fall.
• Add the first fresh lawn mowings to the compost pile and turn the pile weekly to speed decomposition.
• Consider alternatives to sphagnum moss for ling hanging baskets.
• Harvesting the moss for garden use damages its natural habitats.
• Lightweight, flexible basket liners made from wood or textile by-products are available at garden centers.

[April]
• Prepare annual beds and add compost to perennial borders.
• Remove rose protection and move dormant shrubs.
• Plant cold weather vegetable seeds in the garden.
• Repair lawn with compost, seed, rake & fertilize (late April early May).
• Plant shrubs, trees, hedges.
• Remove rose mulch a little at a time, prune.
• Plant early vegetables (peas, onions, radish, beets).
• Treat birches against leaf miner.
• Plant larkspur and calendulas outdoors.
• Check out garden shows.
• Cut lawn only if necessary.
• Open pond.
• Begin to move ornamental grasses and perennials

[May]
Direct-sow hardy annuals at the beginning of this month.

• Thin out annual seedlings you planted previously. If handled carefully, you may be able to replant some, or pot them up to give away. Do this in cloudy weather, or in the evening so the little plants won’t be shocked. Tuck them in, and water gently.
• Plant patio containers. Giant-sized containers don’t need to be filled with soil; most flowers only require 15 – 20 cm (6-8 in.) of soil at the most. Fill the bottom with dried leaves, wadded newspapers, lightly crushed empty pop cans – anything that will fill the space. An upside-down 3 or 5-gallon plastic pot will take up lots of room.
• Prune back spring-flowering perennials. Pruning encourages vigour; plants may bloom a second time.
• Remove spent flowers of tulips, daffodils, other bulbs, but be sure to leave the foliage untouched and do not tie in knots. This season’s dieback creates bulbs for next year’s growth.
• Place ring supports over peonies before they have grown too much – it may be too late depending on your zone and how the weather has been. Stems are brittle and snap easily with the weight of the beautiful, blousy fragrant flowers…
• When hard frost is a thing of the past, plant out summer-blooming lilies and dahlias – if you haven’t already – adding a handful of bone meal or bulb food if you are so inclined. “Eyes” (sprouts) of dahlias should be located on top. When planting summer bulbs, ensure water flows towards them by leaving a slight dip in the soil above the tuber.
• Before adding soil it’s a good idea to push in a stake beside each tuber as a marker and sturdy support for the plant when it becomes taller. As foliage begins to grow up (similar to potatoes), backfill the hole somewhat, to not quite cover leaves.
• Slugs love to nibble young dahlia leaves. Some folks report success using copper rings, copper wire, or copper tags in the soil around plants – it evidently gives the slugs a little "jolt" when their moist bodies come in contact with the copper, and they scram. Spent coffee grounds may also be effective here.
• You might want to start dahlias earlier next season, in one-gallon black plastic pots, to get a head start. Particularly if you’re growing summer colours – pinks, reds, whites, bicolours – you might want your dahlias to bloom in July and August. Some people  prefer them later in fall hues of oranges, golds, and burnished reds.

[June]
• Plant container-grown trees, shrubs, vines, and ground covers.
• Prune wisteria as it finishes blooming.
• Fertilize azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons with an acid-based fertilizer, and mulch with oak leaf compost if you have it [as they finish blooming].
• Prune early blooming trees and shrubs. Do not prune summer or fall bloomers now or flower buds will be lost.
• Plant vines on trellises, arbors, and fences.
• Feed and mulch perennials and roses.
• Feed plants regularly with organic fertilizers and water well.
• Keep an eye on containers and hanging baskets as they dry out very quickly.
• Sow perennials, such as phlox, yarrow, columbine, lupine and delphinium in a seed bed for next summer.
• Continue staking tall perennials, and keep perennials beds neat by picking fresh flowers for indoor display and faded flowers for the compost.
• Deadhead rhododendrons and azaleas, and mulch if not already done
• Keep newly planted hedges, trees and shrubs well watered.
• Cut back suckers on lilacs, and prune off faded flower heads.
• Prune back deciduous shrubs, such as mock orange, after flowering.
• Remove about 1/3 of the immature apples to get bigger fruit and prevent branches breaking from too much weight later on.

[July]
• Water flowers in containers and hanging baskets daily.
• Regularly deadhead annuals and perennials to encourage flowering.
• When delphiniums fade, cut to ground level to stimulate second bloom.
• Make sure tall plants have support.
• Lift bearded irises after flowering, divide and replant
• Pinch back chrysanthemums and asters to promote bushiness.
• Dry flowers for winter decoration.
• Plant autumn bulbs such as colchicum and autumn crocus.
• Take geranium cuttings.
• Prune weigela, mock orange, and deutzia, after flowering.
• Give hedges a light pruning to keep them tidy.
• Deadhead roses and water well, feed with rose food.
• Take cuttings of hebe, senecio and lavender.
• Add waste from vegetable garden to compost and keep it moist and turn regularly.
• Keep garden well watered.

[August]
• Remember to deadhead annuals and perennials.
• Feed plants in tubs window boxes and hanging baskets with fish fertilizer.
• Plant out perennials seedlings, such as delphiniums and biennials, such as wallflowers, that were started earlier.
• Take cuttings of alpines, such as pinks.
• Continue to take cuttings of garden geraniums.
• Collect seeds of plants you wish to propagate.
• Plant fall-flowering bulbs.
• Order peonies from catalogues to plant in the next few months.
• Prune back wisteria and other vigorous climbers to control vegetative growth.
• Clip lavender as flowers fade.
• Trim hedges.

[September/October]
• Begin fall planting as temperature cools. Soak plants in tepid water a few hours before planting.
• Tidy up the perennial border, divide perennials and buy new ones now so they establish roots.
• Deadhead roses and annuals.
• Fertilize annuals and container plants with manure tea or water-soluble balanced organic fertilizer.
• Divide overcrowded clump-forming perennials such as shasta daisies, coreopsis, bee balm, catmint, phlox and violets.
• Remove weeds before they set seed. Edge and weed existing beds, and mulch for weed control.
• Install, repair, or service watering systems; prepare greenhouse or cold frame for winter; collect indoor supplies.
• Plant spring bedding, containerized trees and shrubs, and bulbs, especially tulips.
• Clear path of weeds.
• Prune rambler roses.
• Cut back dead and dying foliage in the pond and stretch netting over the pond to catch falling leaves.
• Move tender perennials into the greenhouse before frost strikes.
• Continue to cut back herbaceous perennials. Remove all weeds from among their crowns.
• Rake or pick up all fallen leaves from lawns and compost them.
• Plant spring bulbs.
• Prune wisteria.
• Prune cane fruits to just above ground level. Give top dressing.
• Fall is a good time to get new plants as garden centers do not want to carry stock over winter.
• Check compost. Amend your soil or mulch around perennials, trees and shrubs.
• Take cuttings from geraniums, tibouchina, marguerites and other tender plants.
• Save seeds.
• Check out ornamental grasses at their peak this month.
• Pull up finished vegetables. Throw diseased tomato and potato stems in garbage, not compost.
• Give hedges final trimming.
• Reseed and renovate an uneven lawn.
• Evergreens and perennials transplanted now have time to develop new roots before winter.
• Check for insects and disease before bringing plants indoors.
• Apply aluminum sulfate to base of hydrangeas if you want bright blue blooms. Add dolomite lime to make them pink.
• Plant new peonies.

[November/December]
• Never walk on frosted grass. It leaves neat, brown footprints. The gardeners boots can do a lot of damage in the garden at this time of year. Avoid walking on the lawn when it is wet.
• Whenever the weather is open-ie. frost free and not too wet continue to plant trees and shrubs from containers.
• Plant bare-rooted trees and shrubs.
• Prune trees and shrubs that have become crowded, overgrown, or have crossed or rubbing branches. Winter pruning encourages growth, so think it out as you go.
• Give autumn-sown hardy annuals a thorough weeding to see them through to the start of general plant growth.
• Warning: Ignore advice about using bracken for protecting plants from cold. It is often mentioned as a suitable material, but you have to gather it yourself and therefore need to live somewhere near where it grows. The main reason, however, is that is carcinogenic, and bracken-gatherers lay themselves open to cancer.
• Fertilize cool-season grasses after first freeze to promote winter root growth. Apply lime if necessary.
• Tie up loosely branched evergreens and boxwood to prevent snow damage.
• Finish planting roses, perennials, and bulbs.
• Clean flower beds and remove annuals killed by frost. Work mulch and organic matter into beds before soil freezes. Let beds sit until spring.
• Plant bare-root fruit and nut trees, berries, figs, and grapes. Apply dormant oil spray. Mulch hardy root crops [kale, beets, turnips, radishes, parsnips to keep soil from freezing. sRake and dispose of decaying leaves and fruit around fruit trees.
• Watch for overwintering insects and diseases.
• Clean gutters and downspouts. Gutter overflow can damage or kill plants.
• Use sand, not salt, on ice-covered surfaces; salt damages plantings and lawns.
• How to Refresh Topsoil

HINTS AND TIPS
Even a plant that doesn't need repotting should have its soil replenished yearly. Remove top 2 to 4 inches of soil with a fork: avoid harming fragile feeder roots. Refill with fresh soil mixed with slow release organic fertilizer and if desired, top with grit.

Tricks of the Garden Trade
When it comes to planting flowers, tighter is better. If a description says to space zinnias 18 to 20inches apart, for example, make it 18 inches. This little trick of the trade will produce a most luxuriant look.

A Better Way
The most important thing to know about newly planted trees is that they need plenty of water. A bucketful every day is not excessive, especially in dry weather. To make the job go quicker, and to make sure the water does not run off but is delivered straight down to the trees roots, try placing a big plastic pot or bucket with holes in the bottom right next to the trunk of each one. You can then make the round with your hose, filling the buckets while water seeps gradually into the soil.

Solving the new yard dlemma
You've bought a new house with a bare yard, but the soil is terrible. What to do for a quick fix? Native plants to the rescue: the following are all tough-as nails clay busters:

Perennials
• Smooth aster [aster laevis]
• Pale purple coneflower [echinacea pallida]
• Rattlesnake master [eryngium yuccifolium]
• Prairie blazing star [liatris pycnostachya]
• Wild quinine [parthenium integrifolium]
• Yellow coneflower [ratibida pinnata]
• Stiff goldenrod [solidago rigida]
• Compass plant [silphium lacinatum]
• Grasses
• Big bluestem [andropogon gerardii]
• Canada wild rye [elymus canadensis]
• Indian grass [sorghastrum nutans]